A Land of Contradictions

It was one of the most surreal moments of my time in Haiti. It appeared after yet another day traveling a teeth-jarring, bone rattling contorted rock and red dirt mountain-side road, this day to Parque La Visite. After being bounced and tossed within our SUV for a couple of hours, my driver Patrick and I decide to siesta in the Village of Furcy. Here we stop for a roadside snack, Fritailles, made street-side from boiled and fried pork (Griot), plantains, and spicy cabbage. So very good!

Adding to our rain forest adventure, in the midst of our wonderful meal, the rains came in a torrent. People scurried for cover, street merchants covered their goods, pigs (soon to be supper) rolled in the mud. Then, in the midst of our third-world afternoon rain, he appeared; nameless, old rich "Homme Blanc" in the middle of Black Haiti riding a $3,000 Trek mountain bike dressed in $500 in cycling regalia, all wet and muddied, not a care in the world.

What old, rich "Homme Blanc" illustrated so smartly, was the contradiction that is Haiti.

Beyond the squalor that is Port au Prince and over the hills of shanty towns that is urban Haiti, lays an untapped treasure of natural wonder; mountains reaching into clouds, valleys dipping below sea level. This is not the denuded Haiti so ofter spoken of, it is the Haiti of tall pines, tropical flowers, lush greenery, crops of coffee, tobacco, mango's, and bananas along with terraced farms of corn, yams, watermelons, and peppers.

There is a sweet scent of flowers in the air here, not the smog and fumes from the city below. This is where single-file traffic is slowed by donkeys and cattle, not by overflowing Tap Taps and buses driving six across on a two lane road.

This is a Haiti of hidden wealth, chalets, sport and adventure camps for all but Haitians. However, this is a land begging for eco-visitors to hike its trails, ride its single-track paths, and paddle is rivers to the ocean. It is a Haiti far removed from its urban dead zones alive bio-diversity and the welcoming smiles of its neighbors.

Although atop a mountain's peak the tranquil, turquoise shoreline of Jacmel can be seen, all one needs do is turn about to see the KAOS that is Port au Prince. How unfortunate, save for the fortunate few, that all that is Haiti is tainted by that which is Port au Prince.